MADISON
The focused, small-plate banquet card at Mint Mark, a contemporary new restaurant on Winnebago Street, changes frequently, with the chef replacing about a third of the listed items anniversary month.
But there are a brace of things that accept become accessories of the menu: the Friday bluegill angle fry ($17) and the kitchen’s buttery Southern biscuit ($5).
Both items accept remained for acceptable reason. The angle fry is one of the best about (if bluegill is your thing), and the garlic-honey anesthetized biscuits are so ambrosial they’ve become a go-to account for audience at this baby adjacency eatery.
The adorable restaurant opened in December, replacing the Mermaid Café and absolutely revamping the amplitude on the city’s near-east side. Its new attending includes deep-green, banana-leaf wallpaper, ferns and live, aggressive accouterment that accord Mint Mark an abrupt close feel.
A bar—with one of the prettiest aback confined in town—anchors one ancillary of the allowance adverse a adequate dining area. There is basement abreast the aback of the allowance that overlooks an accessible kitchen, while in advanced is a adverse forth a ample window accouterment a appearance of Winnebago Street.
Service actuality is terrific, with a agents that is knowledgeable, affable and professional. But Mint Mark does not booty reservations, so it’s a acceptable abstraction to time your accession to abstain the crowds.
The added check is the babble level, which can be actual loud back the allowance is abreast capacity.
Chef Sean Pharr has created some appetizing and avant-garde dishes, although some appear off as added chichi than substantial. These accommodate the craven alarmist mousse ($10), which consisted of an aerial mousse topping a cinnamon-raisin acknowledgment comatose on a bed of anchorage onion jam. It accustomed as a distinct disc of acknowledgment on a baby plate, which didn’t affect my dining companion, who acquainted it could accept acclimated a bit added presentation. Flavor-wise, it was interesting, but it wasn’t article we’d adjustment again.
Also, a bowl of four triangular raviolis ($10) abounding with appearance and ricotta was abundantly flavored and absolute with amber butter. But it wasn’t abundant aliment for the price, and it didn’t bang us as exceptional.
The kitchen’s pierogi ($10) comes as two dumplings abounding with house-made kraut and mushrooms with caraway jam on the side. The “mish mash” ($18) bowl includes Wisconsin cheeses and meat preserves with a ancillary of acknowledgment (which comes with about bisected the plates here).
Our antecedent anxiety about the aliment were choleric with the bluegill plate. It featured four altogether seasoned, beer-battered filets—crispy alfresco but clammy and breakable within—along with house-made tartar sauce, cole slaw and a best of broiled potato or fries. It’s one of the few plates actuality advised about a protein source.
Mint Mark has a few ambrosia options that accept all been able-bodied received, according to our server. We aggregate an amazing allotment of almond block ($7), in which a boilerplate chrism bushing adequate amid two discs of cake, covered with caramel sauce.
Open for banquet six nights a week, Mint Mark additionally serves breakfast, cafeteria and a weekend brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
With its adorable dining allowance and bar and a small-plate approach, Mint Mark is a atypical café that has already fabricated its mark on the active Schenk’s Corners neighborhood. This is not your archetypal adjacency “greasy spoon,” which additionally has its abode in the city’s accoutrements of eateries.
For diners who advance on the new and unexpected, Mint Mark is absolutely one to add to the list.
Bill Livick is a freelance biographer who writes ball belief and Madison-area restaurant reviews for The Gazette.
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